The East Ridge of the Pyramid du Tacul
- a story told in photos
June had just begun and I was heading up the Midi with a new friend and climber partner. Dave Luke and I had been out on a smaller trip a week or so before but this would be our first real trip together.
About the route (taken from Jonathan Griffith/Alpine Exposures): Pyramide du Tacul is a satellite to the Mont Blanc du Tacul on its east side. The east ridge or east arête of the Pyramide du Tacul is the normal route. It is graded D- and a not too difficult rock route on fine granite. It is number 20 in the Rébuffat book of the hundred fines routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.
Ditching boots and glacier kit at the base of the route.
Dave questing through blocky terrain. This was actually the crux of the route at 5a but key footholds were wet so it felt a little harder than that!
We moved together for every other pitch before this so I didn’t manage to get many photos. I was thinking about the lift down and trying to move as quick as possible, Dave was actually the one who decided we pitch out the last few lengths and I’m glad he did. While I wasn’t stoked on spending a night in the hut, the weather was beaut and we were in such a great part of the range. It would have been a waste to miss it all just to save an hour!
On the summit at around 1pm. The last lift down is 4.30pm! Daves face says it all!
Racing down. Until we got a rope stuck anyway… Great looking crack climb up this face with bolted belays. Can’t find it anywhere but it made a great rap line.
Too late for the lift. To Cosmiques for the alpine hotel experience.
70eu for a nights board! Damn that’s a weeks living at the moment. Have to do it once I guess. Bumped into two friends, Andy and Hilton from South Africa who had just had a great day on the South Face of the Midi.
Took the Cosmiques Arete back to the lift station. I must say my only other time on this route was totally underwhelming and I didn’t really see what all of the fuss was about. With much less snow, perfect conditions and not another soul in sight (stated at 4am) it was all-time! Perfect end to a trip. Cheers Dave for a good mission!