The American Direct - Les Dru

Even in the Mont Blanc massif, home to some of the most impressive mountains in the world, Les Dru stands out as a peak of immense beauty and allure. Before my flight back to New Zealand, Andrew and I set our sights on the American Direct route up the west face. This climb was an accumulation of my time here and Europe and pushed me to the limit!

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Untouched - Exploring the wild Caucasus

While scouring the Caucasus on Fatmap, a valley underneath the highest peaks of Georgia caught my eye. There was no information about Khalde Valley online, but it looked like a skier's paradise! Curiosity eventually got the better of me. With nothing more than a summer map, Pirmin, Franz, Martina, and I were in Georgia to check it out for ourselves.

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Salbit Südgrat Rope Solo

Salbitchejin granite is about as good'a rock as you'll get anywhere. The South Ridge is 20+ pitches of about 5a climbing with a crux of 6a. It was a beautiful looking line that I had my eye on for a while. However, I didn't expect to use it as a debut at rope soloing!

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Stories, How ToRyan ColleyComment
Meeting the Eiger - The Mitelegi Integral

Three days ago, I sat alone beneath the most famous piece of rock and ice in European climbing history, the Eiger. A deep history, rich with tales of death and glory, has shrouded the peak in mystery amongst the public; and allure among climbers. I climbed the Mittelegi Integral. A fine, long ridge and an established classic of the Alps.

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Ryan ColleyComment
The Best Time To Climb The Matterhorn?

Tom Livingstone climbed the Hornili Ridge on the Matterhorn during spring 2019. He had the mountain to himself, remarking on an enjoyable solo in beautiful, wintery conditions. Was pre-season the best time to climb the Matterhorn? This post covers my climb with Jasper and explores the idea of pre-season ascents becoming the norm in the future.

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Torres - Tasman Traverse: A Big Day Out

An exhilarating endeavor. The traverse takes you over three three thousand meter peaks, one being the countries second highest - Mt Tasman (3497m). Although it is a technical climb, the real crux of the route lies in its distance and so it is no surprise that the six kilometers of steep, exposed ground is usually done over two days. Remote and offering no easy escape down, once you start, you are committed to finishing the route.

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StoriesRyan ColleyComment
The North Ridge of Sefton - A Christmas to Remember

Highlights include: an open bivvy perched high on the ridge, overlooking the western end of the main divide, and climbing a 3000m peak in approach shoes.

Not even a week had passed after getting back from a trip in the Fox Neve and I found myself once again packing for another multi-day trip into the alpine.

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Ryan ColleyComment
Mountain biking - The Old Ghost Road

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Recently, I took to the Old Ghosty with a mountain bike for a project with Luxury Magazine. My buddy Chris Brinlee Jr had organised the trip and bought me along as the talent for the shoot. Little did he know I had next to no experience on a mountain bike and had never been on a trail before! I got through all it in one piece and loved every moment of it but it was definitely a dive into the deep end. I have put together a few things that I learnt along the way. It is aimed at beginners but if its your first time on this track i’m sure you’ll pick up something too.

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StoriesRyan Colley Comment
Southwest Ridge of Aspiring- Third Time Lucky

Mt Aspiring (Tititea) is New Zealand's largest mountain outside of the Mt Cook region. A real gem of the Southern Alps, it is sometimes called "the Matterhorn of the South." due to its pyramid shape. At 3033m, Aspiring sits above other nearby peaks and welcomes those daring enough to a range of routes.

The Southwest ridge of Aspiring is like a rite of passage for Kiwi mountaineers wanting to progress onto more challenging alpine routes. You start at 400m above sea level, so it is a massive effort to get to the top. The climb follows a long, exposed snow arete, which leads to a steep ice crux and the final snow slope to the summit. And this is New Zealand; of course, it involves a big old approach!

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